What Is a CD (Certificate of Deposit) and How Does It Work?
- 満期時
- $10,450.00
- 利息
- $450.00
預入期間
$10,000.00 for 1 year, compounded daily. Runs in your browser.
A certificate of deposit is a time deposit: you leave a fixed sum with a bank for a fixed term, and the bank pays a fixed rate that is normally higher than a savings account. Withdraw early and you pay a penalty. Deposits are FDIC-insured up to $250,000 per depositor, per bank.
How a CD actually works
A certificate of deposit is a loan you make to a bank for a fixed term at a fixed rate. You choose an amount and a length; the bank commits to a rate it cannot change for as long as the CD stays open. That immovability is the entire product. A savings account's rate can move the week after you fund it, in either direction. A CD's cannot, and almost everything else about the product — the early withdrawal penalty above all — exists to let the bank make that promise.
Interest is credited on the schedule set out in your account disclosure, most often daily or monthly, and each credited amount joins the principal and starts earning interest of its own for the rest of the term. That is compounding, and the formula behind it is the standard one: A = P(1 + r/n)^(nt), where P is the principal, r the nominal annual rate, n the number of compounding periods per year, and t the term in years. Nothing about a CD's growth happens outside that formula — no bonus tiers, no fee drag, just principal compounding at a locked rate for a fixed stretch of time.
A worked example: $10,000 for 12 months
Suppose a bank quotes a 12-month CD at 4.50% APY, compounded daily, and you deposit $10,000. Because APY is already the effective annual yield, the daily compounding is baked into that 4.50% figure, so the balance after one year is simply 10,000 × 1.045 = $10,450 — $450 in interest on a $10,000 deposit over a 12-month term, or an average of $37.50 a month. Back out the daily compounding and the nominal rate behind that APY works out to about 4.40%, which is the figure a disclosure would label as the 'interest rate' rather than the APY.
What you give up: liquidity, not principal safety
Money in a CD is not gone and it is not exposed to the bank's fortunes — it is simply unavailable on your own schedule. Close it before the maturity date and the bank charges an early withdrawal penalty, standardly expressed as a set number of months of interest on the principal, not on the balance you have actually earned. If you have not yet earned that much interest, the shortfall comes out of your deposit itself, which is the one scenario in which a CD can hand back less than you put in.
- Terms under 12 months typically carry a penalty of about 3 months of interest.
- Terms of 1 to 4 years usually carry around 6 months.
- Terms of 5 years or more often carry 9 to 12 months.
One lump sum, not a running balance
A CD is normally funded once, at opening, and that is by design rather than an oversight. Unlike a savings account, you generally cannot add money to one later — if you want to save more, you open another CD or wait for this one to mature and redeposit. Minimum opening deposits commonly run $500 to $2,500 at traditional banks, though many online banks have no minimum at all, and jumbo tiers starting around $100,000 sometimes carry a modest rate premium. Whatever the entry point, expect a single deposit, a single term and a single rate for the account's whole life.
Deciding whether a CD is the right container
A CD suits money that has a deadline and no tolerance for loss: a house deposit eighteen months out, a tax bill due next spring, the fixed-income portion of a retirement portfolio. It is a poor fit for money you might need without warning, since the early withdrawal penalty can erase months of interest, and a poor fit for very long horizons where a fixed rate risks trailing inflation or other assets over time.
Opening a long CD is also an implicit bet that rates will hold steady or fall, because you cannot capture a later rate increase without breaking the CD and paying for the privilege. If you have no strong view on where rates are headed — and most savers do not — spreading money across several maturities is a more defensible default than concentrating it all in one term.
Treasury bills are worth a passing comparison, since they carry similar backing — the full faith and credit of the federal government rather than deposit insurance — and often similar terms. The practical differences are smaller minimums and easier laddering with a CD, against interest that is exempt from state income tax with a T-bill, a real edge for savers in high-tax states even though it rarely decides the question on its own.
Where people get this wrong
- Treating a CD like an emergency fund, then paying a penalty to reach money that needed to stay liquid in the first place.
- Comparing one bank's APY against another bank's nominal rate and concluding the nominal number is competitive, when the two are not directly comparable.
- Missing the maturity notice and letting the CD auto-renew into the bank's current standard rate, which is frequently lower than the rate originally locked in.
- Opening several CDs at one bank without checking that the combined balance, plus the interest they are accruing, still sits under the $250,000 FDIC insurance limit.
How CD interest is taxed
Interest on a CD is taxable in the year it is credited to your account, whether you withdraw it or let it ride toward maturity — including on multi-year CDs where you never touch a dollar until the term ends. Your bank reports the amount to you and to the IRS on Form 1099-INT. The main exception is a CD held inside a tax-advantaged account such as an IRA, where that account's own distribution rules apply instead of ordinary interest-income treatment.
Bank CDs, credit union certificates, and brokered CDs
A bank CD and a credit union 'share certificate' are the same product wearing a different name — the credit union version is insured by the NCUA rather than the FDIC, on the same per-member, per-institution, per-ownership-category basis. Rates at credit unions are sometimes a touch higher because the institution is member-owned rather than shareholder-owned, though membership eligibility is the price of entry.
A brokered CD is a third variant, bought through a brokerage account rather than directly from the issuing bank. The underlying deposit is still FDIC-insured through that bank, but instead of paying an early withdrawal penalty to exit early, you sell the CD on a secondary market at whatever price it currently commands — which can land above or below what you paid, since a brokered CD trades more like a bond than a fixed bank product once it is issued.
よくある質問
Yes, a CD at an FDIC-insured bank is safe up to $250,000 per depositor, per bank, per ownership category, and that coverage protects your principal even if the bank itself fails. The insurance applies automatically the moment you open the account, with no paperwork or fee required, and it covers accrued interest as well as the original deposit, not just the amount you first put in. Suppose you deposit $10,000 in a 12-month CD at 4.50% APY, compounded daily: the account matures at $10,450.00 regardless of the bank's own financial condition, because the FDIC guarantee stands behind that number, not the bank's balance sheet. Two things can still leave you behind despite that guarantee: an early withdrawal penalty that exceeds the interest you have earned, which can dip into principal on a CD closed very early, and a fixed rate that trails inflation over a multi-year term, which erodes purchasing power without ever changing the account balance itself.
出典
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